This gift, of immersing the self in the briny deep, of becoming buyount in the salted water, and using your own body to move and frolic with the waves, is astounding.
You don’t have to surf, or body board, or do any particular thing when you’re in the water. Just standing, waist or chest high, so you can feel it all, your full immersion in another environment, is plenty. You, with your supple beautiful skin, are able to do this; you are an animal that can go into water, or on land, or in air. You can exist in multiple environments, with multiple elements.
The waves have a language all their own.
If you stand there, baptizing yourself in this great glorious deep, you will be able to hear it, first with your body, then with your soul.
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